Just bought these two items. Absolutely best price possible and free shipping. Didn’t want a situation where it was out of stock when I needed it. Uninstalled stuff can be returned anytime for a refund.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-CW1/Wheel-Nut-Cavity-Cleaner
I’m paying the dealer to install it when the car comes in so I have full warranty. These are Ford Racing parts. Obviously I’m keeping the original mufflers.
I’m not doing any custom tunes until the drivetrain warranty expires in 5 years. By that time I’ll know if there are any issues with the engine. If not, I’m safe using a BAMA tune and a quality cold air intake.
These mufflers: extra 9 hp and lighter weight. But I got them for the sound without being too loud.
CAI: 11 hp
Tune for 93 octane: 20-24 hp
This is all rear wheel hp. So the flywheel hp would go from 420 to maybe 475, plus shifting would be better. No manual with the same tune would beat it.
The Ford Racing tune and air filter is not worth the money for the little bit of power added, even if it’s covered under warranty. It’s about 7 hp overall. However it does add 60 pounds of torque at 1500 rpm. But that won’t do me much good, really, unless I was using gigantic monster slicks in the rear. Otherwise takeoffs would spin tires even easier than it can do already.
BAMA gives you 3 tunes for any and all of the 3 octanes, generically offering Street, Performance and Racing, but you can mix and match parameters.
I’d do 87 Performance with original shifting, 93 Performance with Performance shifting, and 93 Racing with Racing shifting, which I would rarely use. Takes about 5-15 minutes to reload a tune. Original factory tune is backed up.
BAMA is by far the best company (American Muscle) with the best warranty. Most people also report MPG gains, especially with using Performance. They also offer a Nitrous mode for 91 octane only. I think just that one is not warrantied.
BAMA is the most careful not to get into detonation issues or getting something too lean or rich, yet their numbers are as good as anyone’s. You can also shut off the speed limiter or adjust rpm limiter, though I’d leave the latter alone for sure.
Once you purchase your 3 tunes, you get more tunes free for life. This means if a tune doesn’t work out, or you get different size tires, or get different rear end gears, etc. This way your instruments still read right, etc.
I’ve done research. IF the engine blew up, the dealer can tell if the computer was flashed, though they would not know what was changed and how it was changed before you loaded the original tune back in. So you’d likely have no warranty. An engine is about $10k installed. IF the #8 piston blows up (detonation/runner issue done wrong), BAMA covers $8k of the cost. That’s why I think they’re the most careful.
The scary thing is that if you took it to a dealer while traveling out of state and they needed to reflash it for some reason, you really better have a detailed receipt to show your original dealer if the engine blows up later. I would also have the dealer contact my dealer by phone to let them know what they did so it could be entered into the database. Otherwise you’d be on the hook for no warranty.
These engines seem to be as reliable as any. You know how the Internet is. The people with problems likely did something stupid.
I’m switching from Hess gas to Shell, as usually Shell here is just as cheap or even cheaper. The Hess gas is just as good, but the Shell has useful additives that likely would help the engine. The important thing is never buy gas from a place that is really a “no name” brand or doesn’t do much business, so the gas sits in their tanks longer.
I want to get the car broken in fast so I’m planning some day trips off of interstate highways. I’ve never been to Burlington, VT, so that might be a valid itinerary.
MONDO BUZZ 