ELECTRONIC RUST KILLER RESEARCH

I still have my original Rust Evader from the Saab Turbo. However the anode sticky pads are destroyed after taking them off, naturally. Some time back I bought some thickish tape that might work, though I have to wonder if the dielectric properties are right compared to the original pads. Plus I buried the tape really well so now I have to find it.

I’d like to use the original stuff, but may have to spend about $530 plus shipping from Australia to get a current state of the art system.

I was gonna get their pads for about $76 US dollars plus whatever shipping, but realized they’re meant for their system and I have to wonder if I could just use one lead. The Rust Evader leads are only single wires coming from the anodes. Their system uses two leads.

All over the Net you read how these systems “can’t” work, etc., but I know the Rust Evader did. The proof was when my brother spotted some rust showing up in a spot, I checked, and the battery terminals were dirty and I wasn’t getting a blinking light on the head unit. Fixed that and the rust was frozen, and no other rust appeared.

The WORST CASE scenario for the Rust Evader system is that the scavenging winds up in the nooks and crannies under the vehicle, but at least doesn’t show on the outer car surface, and that’s worth a lot to me.

This Aussie system is similar but has technical differences. They’ve been around for a while and have tons of testimonials from fisherman, salt mines, etc. You can scout the site, doesn’t really take that long.

A complete system would be $528 US dollars plus whatever the shipping would be. I don’t think anyone on the planet can do better than this outfit. I would purposely order extra anodes, too, about $76 each. All prices before shipping from Australia. I’d contact them first to see what to expect for shipping by slow boat. I’m also going to try to find an American dealer for their stuff, but doesn’t look likely.

http://www.erps.com.au/how-erps-works.html

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